Day 41 - May 4 2017 Thursday

Day

May 4 Thursday 

Miles today 3.9

Total miles 353.9

Stealth camp 1.4 short of Indian grave gap to beauty spot

Today we left our great camp spot just about 1.4 miles short of Indian grave gap.   We had heard there was some weather coming in but didn't expect it to be anything we couldn't walk through or work out, but oh how we were mistaken.   We started the night with the fly off of our tent but around 3 am the wind started whipping up pretty consistently hard and we ended up getting out and putting it on.  In the morning, the wind was still gusting pretty well and we had on a layer more than usual due to the winds. We ate breakfast and started our hike, as we walked you could hear the branches crashing into each other with the gusts and breaking off and falling down into the woods.  Halfway to Indian grave gap, a lone younger hiker guy passed each of us as we were a little spread out.  No sooner had he passed Mallory at the front than a forearm sized four foot branch fell and hit him square on the head, broke and lacerated his lip.  He turned around in a dazed with a bloody face, sizeable gash and a look of shock.  We all came up and did and offered what we could to help him.  He tried to stop the bleeding with a bandana and we gave him a wet wipe to help clean it, it looked like he may have needed stitches.  After he got together a little bit, he pressed on to the gap to hopefully get a ride into town to an urgent care so they could take a look at his lip and we followed behind, all the way much more cognizant of how quick something could happen given the extremely windy conditions and keeping our eyes and ears alert for falling dangers.  At Indian grave gap, we saw that the boy who had been injured was fortunately getting picked up and taken to an urgent care and we ran into our shuttle driver Doug!  He has been a in the right place at the right time for us at many turns while we've been in Erwin, and I can't recommend their shuttle service enough.  He told us about the wind advisory, that there could be gusts of up to 70-80 mph and said he could go ahead and take us back to town if we wanted.  We debated for a few minutes but decided to press on and try our luck, it was only 8.7 miles from the gap to the shelter, about four hours of hiking and we thought if we could make it there we would probably be ok.  

As we hiked, the elevation increased and the trees went between dangerous and tall to slightly shorter and a bald area as we approached beauty spot.  The winds also increased, hitting hard and consistent from our right sides, blowing us all over the trail with each step.  It was amazing to see the speed that the close clouds were moving with across the sky.  You had to be conscious of overhead hazards and items whipping across the trail and hitting you in the face or legs.  Just past beauty spot gap we regrouped and decided it was crazy and irresponsible and dangerous to continue out in that weather so we tried to get in touch with Doug and see if he could come back and pick us up after all.  He said he could meet us in about 45 mins and to walk down the gravel road and meet back at Indian grave gap parking area.  We had reached one of the crossings of the gravel road in the area and so we hiked back down the road to meet up with him.  As we were hiking down, a car came down the hill and we tried to catch a ride down but no luck.  Then a car came up the hill as well!  I'm not sure what their plan was but I hope they are safe now. 

We met up with Doug and he gave us a ride back to the super 8 in Erwin where we had made a reservation for the night.  Once we were back in town, we of course had to get food.  Slightly windy in town, but nothing like on the mountain, we walked into the downtown area of Erwin and ate at the Hawg n Dawg.   It was so delcious.  We each got something different and their BBQ was so good, probably on my top ten for flavor, tenderness, and texture.  Then there was about a dozen different sauces to pick from for topping it.  I got BBQ nachos that had a yummy home version cheese sauce with BBQ and then you added your sauces choice from the bottles available at the table.  There is a whole extra container full of the spicer sauces so make sure to ask for them if you like some heat and a variety.  I also got a basic hot dog which was fantastic because they use a special bun and toast it.  Brayden got the daily special which was a loaded BBQ baked potato and small BBQ sandwich; Mallory got the BBQ sand which plate with baked beans and slaw and X got a 'super dawg' which was an open faced hot dog with BBQ, chili, slaw, and mustard and it was loaded.  That was a full meal, but we topped it off with dessert because prices weren't awful and they had m&m cake with ice cream and butterscotch cake with ice cream.  I have no regrets about how we did the food in this town :-D   

On the way back to the hotel, we got Taco Bell to go so we could have it later in the night and not have to worry about going back out.  When we got back to the super 8, we decided to toss our clothes in the laundry because hey why not.  Around 6:30, I got a call from Doug asking if we wanted to go out to one of the local Mexican places, we at first said we would have to rain check but then decided we should seize the day and hang out with our great shuttle driver as well and called back and said we would go with him.  He picked us up around 7 and we headed out for a delcious meal and story swapping about trail tales. We even got to pick up some spirits from the store for our celebration into Virginia and hundred mile markers!  We retreated to our hotel room for a last nights rest before heading out into what is supposed to be a dreary next few days with rain and cooler temperatures and caught the end of the Star Wars may the 4th be with you marathon.  Hoping for a good tomorrow, happy trails!

Day 40 - May 3 2017 Wednesday

Day 40

May 3 2017 Wednesday 

Miles today 6.7

Total miles 349.4

Super 8 in Erwin to trailhead to stealth site 1.4 miles south of Indian grave gap

Today we left Erwin super 8 and planned to hike as far as we felt after having the first day back after a zero day and a 13 mile climb ahead of us.  We ate bojangles for our last time since we had been craving it over a month.  We spoke to a bus driver for one of the local rafting companies and told him some trail stories and he asked us questions about the trail and our packs etc.  We then called Doug to see if he could give us a ride and swing us by the post office on the way out, and mal got new sunglasses.  We had gotten such great boxes from our family and friends that we bounced ahead items so we might minimize our resupply in about a week.  

We picked up our hike at johnnys hostel and the first few miles were pretty flat considering the climb we thought we had coming.  There were still some steep sections and Brayden and I were taking our time.  We meet up late with Mal and X at the shelter and decided to press on for at least a little bit since we've grown to like the peace of the stealth camping.  We found a great spot just short of Indian grave gap with a fire ring and it wasn't too late in the day so we had time to make a fire and enjoy it.  Brayden and I did the food right too and brought subway sandwiches in for our dinner and I had some of the cookie from Pizza Hut left and everyone was jealous and lessons were learned.  We met a thru hiker who was completing his triple crown; meaning he had completed the pacific crest trail (PCT) and continental divide trail (CDT) and was working on completing the Appalachian trail (AT).  He had come all the way from florida though, by FOOT!  His trail name was scalywag and he had started his journey by completing all or part of the Florida trail, 200 miles of road walking, piecing together some other trails and the getting on the AT April 7th. He said he had to make good time as well because he was planning to finish his trail not just in Maine but in Quebec, Canada!  He said you had to get there even earlier than the Maine deadline so it was sort of neat we even ran into him.  He was traveling light and I wish I could have picked his brain some more on that aspect but he had plenty of trail stories to tell and ask about ours.  He was stoveless and was presoak/rehydrating food in a peanut butter jar and then adding a tuna packet to it at camp for dinner.  We had ran across and picked up firestarters at johnnys hostel and had made a good fire. Another couple of hikers passed by and Cubs stopped to camp near us as well and hung out around the fire for a bit.  We all turned in around our usual time and I slept pretty well until we decided to put the rain fly on around 3 am due to gusty winds but I fell back asleep pretty well too the morning.  Until tomorrow, happy trails.  

Day 36 - April 29 2017 Saturday

Day 36

April 29 Saturday 

Miles today 15.1

Total miles

4 miles south of hogpen shelter to 0.3 north past big bald Shelter

Today we got started around 9 and had some rolling to large climbs and decents.  We got to walk through some lovely sound of music fields and had some great views today.  We stopped at hogpen gap for a break/lunch snack and ran into an older man who was talking with us and he said that his grandparents house and truck were used in the movie deliverance!  He said they had brought In the gas station that was used as props and the front porch they play dueling banjos on was his grandmothers porch, all in the area around franklin nc.  There was a lovely vista a little off the trail after hogpen  shelter we stopped at.   Pictures never do the views and scenery justice.  We had then planned to stop at a little cafe we thought was close to the trail but turns out it was about 1-2 miles off it down the road.  But! We did get some trail magic when we hit the road!  There were a couple Powerades and some chips left by people and a handful of hikers waiting for a ride that was coming.  They also had a trashbag so we were able to dump our trash which is always a nice surprise.  'Miss Janet' a trail angel that follows the hiker bubble, came to pick up folks and take them to Erwin for the hiker event that was happening today.  We should have said yes and gone along, but it would have thrown off our plans of staying in town Monday and making it back to do this section so we stuck with the plan and hiked on.  It was great to finally meet Miss Janet though, we've been hearing about her for a while.  We crossed the road a saw a road sign saying 'welcome to Tennessee'; we've been on the border going in and out of nc and Tennessee since we got past GA.  

We stopped at around 4 for a longer break, Xavier had his dinner at this time and it seemed like it might be a good idea to eat before we get to camp bc then we don't have to do anything once we get here except set up the tents and get in since he was able to do that once we got here.  

Around 6 we came up on 'big bald' which had 360 degree views of everything for miles.  It was super windy on top while we were there and these super ants with wings were all over.   We took lots of pictures and went live on facebook for a minute before following the trail and winding down and around and across the smaller 'little bald' on the way to the campsite.   

We spent the last bit of the day talking about  how we would be getting into town so soon and how we would do a big day tomorrow so we would only have to hike one or two miles to get to town so we could eat and eat and eat and eat.  We've heard and seen the map of the town and it's a hikers dream: bojangles, Pizza Hut, McDonald's, Taco Bell, subway, little ceasers, all you can eat mom and pop pizza, a barber shop, Mexican food, Asian buffet, huddle house and more.  We just go on and on about all the things we want and the order we can eat them in.  I decided to get my hair cut super short at the barbers since it's getting hot out and this longer hair is in the way.  I've always wanted to buzz it and now is the chance for it.  I'm worried to commit to such a big change but it will grow out.  I'll probably have to cover it for family pictures until I get home though haha and I'm a little worried about scalp sunburn in the beginning lol.  

We came up quicker than we thought on the campsite tonight (just 0.3 past big bald shelter) and are super close with our tents or usual due to limited flat space at the camp area but it's not too cold tonight and we're all looking forward to getting a lot of miles done tomorrow and an early town day and overnight starting Monday!   Until then, happy trails. 

Day 35 - April 28 2017 Friday

Day 35

April 28 2017 Friday 

Miles today 11.5

Total miles 311.5

Jerrys cabin shelter to stealth camp 1.9 past laurel hostel

We started the morning later than we planned as usual haha.  But, it gave us time to dry off some gear that was wet from the rain and morning dew and humidity.  Out of the shelter was a 600 foot climb, but afterwards opened up into exposed open and beautiful fields where there was a campsite that would have been really cool to stay at.   That happens though, if you would have just gone a little further there's always greener grass, like with anything I assume :-)

In the middle of the field, Xavier got cell service and was checking on email correspondence with big Agnes, an outdoor gear company.  Their tent has been giving them issues during the rain storms so they were checking on what they should do etc so they had to take out their rain fly and snap some additional photos and provide some more info to see if they could go through the warranty process.  

We got started on a regular pace around 10 am or so.  I got to snack a good amount while waiting for the photos and emails to be completed and it's always great eating down the food!   It's amazing how much it can weigh and I need to do better in the future about it bringing too much food or food that's too dense with mostly sugar calories.  Brayden and I have been talking about getting some protein powder and/or a multivitamin for having at dinner or breakfast time.  We've also read that fish oil pills are supposed to be really good for inflammation and just feeling good as well.  You just have to be careful with the kind you get as it supposedly doesn't keep well in high or hot temperatures.  We will have to see what's in the next town or if we can get some on amazon or perhaps someone can send us some in a resupply box. 

The terrain for the first half of the day after a couple climbs was a downward trend that wasn't too steep and the weather was sunny and absolutely lovely with a breeze.  Mid way thru the day there was a nice campsite area but we pressed on and planned to have lunch and a break at the shelter 0.8 miles up the hill from the campsite.   We took a break at the flint mountain shelter  Which had a picnic table and the shelter was really nice and clean.  There were notes about a hostel and small store up ahead and we planned to stop by for a soda or snack.  But we were surprised by some trail magic right at the devil fork gap road junction!  A long distance hiking regular, who has done the AT twice, the Florida trail, long trail and others in Florida, said he travels around helping with AT things during the season and doing trail magic and the same in Florida.  He had a sweet set up with a smaller motor home that had a huge AT symbol on it and miscellaneous stickers, he was previous military as well, and he had his mtn bike, kayak and outdoor gear right at his disposal!   It's like a post trail dream come true haha.  He offered us soda and beer and unfortunately had just run out of ice cream, but we each took a soda with great thankfulness.   Truly, nothing is more delicious than a ice cold drink by happy surprise on this trail.  

There were signs at the road for the laurel hostel just half a mile down the trail.  A couple other hikers said there wasn't much there, just some sodas, beer and chimichangas.  We've learned so far on the trail to always say yes to things so we decided to go by the 'hostel' anyway; it was only 150 ft off the trail.  The hostel was a large shed with an interior of probably 12 by 12 with a fridge, microwave, washing machine, shower/sink, and some bunks.  There was a large covered porch area, probably 12 by 20 that had a grill, lots of chairs and some makeshifted tables.  It appeared to be ran by some local guys from the hollers.  They seemed nice, but I don't think they had done any of the trail before.  It was nice to be able to eat a calorie dense chimichanga and soda before the giant hill we were about to climb though.  We didn't stay long and the food cost a few bucks but it hit the spot for me.  We got a soda for the campsite later that night as well.   We have learned to do that now ;-)   It might not be ice cold when we get to camp, but the bubbly drink still tastes good.  

We hiked up the big climb after the hostel which crossed back and forth over a small steam that built on itself until it came to a large waterfall where we filled up our sawyer bags and bottles so we would have enough water when we stealth camped at the top of the hill tonight.  The spring water is ice cold and feels good now in the middle of the day to dip a bandana in it and put it on your neck or head.  We decided tonight we would try to do a backcountry shower with my bladder and the dr bronners soap at the campsite tonight.  We planned to hide behind our tyvek or trees etc.  The shower sounded good at the time while we were sweating and puffing up the hill but once at our site, it was quite windy and we waivered on whether to go thru with it or not.  We finally decided to and it was well worth it!   It was a chilly experience but felt great because you could actually get sort of clean and wash off the dirt and get 'clean' as opposed to baby wipes which help, but seem to leave a residue behind.   They are certainly better than nothing though!!   I felt like a new person after the mini shower and we came up to have dinner.  The trail apparently cut around our shower so hopefully no one saw more than they bargained for haha.  

Dinner for me was ramen with lemon pepper tuna and some loaded instant potatoes mixed in.  I don't use too many potatoes, just enough to thicken up the ramen if it's too watery.  I also had either hot chocolate with powdered milk  or breakfast essentials with powdered milk, can't tell the difference after pouring it in baggies haha.  The wind didn't let up and we hung out for a bit trying to figure out our plans for getting into Erwin on Sunday or Monday until the sun started to go down and it got cooler.  We retreated to our tents and called it a night.  Hoping for warm toes and peaceful sleep, happy trails. 

Day 28 - April 21 friday

Day 28

April 21 Friday 

Miles today 6.9

Total miles

Standing bear farm to groundhog shelter

Day 27 - April 20 Thursday

Day 27

April 20 Thursday

Miles today 12.6

Total miles

Cosby shelter to standing bear hostel

Today is my oldest nephews birthday!  He will be 12 and I can't believe it!!   I remember when we went down and saw him and he was just a baby baby just born.  And then when he was a toddler and I was sliding him around on a towel on the floor and he thought it was so funny and now he's growing up in school and activities and has a mind of his own.  Time stops for no man.  

We ended up  at standing bear hostel and we're surprised to find a giant party!  It was a big surprise for us but it was amazing!!  Tons of people had brought lots of food, BBQ, varieties of meats, salad, breadsticks, spaghettini, beans, chili, someone said there was bear at one point, cakes, cookies, slush drinks, lemonade, home cooked everything-it was the best ever.  We got there and there was tent camping available on the lawn, good weather, good people. They had a little shop onsite that was on your honor; you just went in and got what you needed and wrote what you got on an envelope and left money in the envelope and gave it to the host when you left.  There was a campfire and a couple people that played guitar, a washboard with dryer if you wanted to use them, a kitchen with running water and dishes, a table with a huge power strip for charging devices, they had a building with bunks in it and then a slightly smaller building that was more private with a few beds you could split with a group if you wanted.  There was a bath house with and indoor and outdoor shower.  

Today we crossed a bridge and walked along the highway for a little bit, we came to a sign for highway 40 where you could go to Knoxville Tennessee or Asheville NC.  Hard to believe we are so close and yet not close to home at the same time.  And hard to believe that we have been on the trail for just over a month now.   I miss people and my dogs and things at home but at the same time don't feel like it's been as long as it has been and am becoming used to the daily routine on the trail.   I can see how they say it becomes a mental game after the first couple months.   Like a honeymoon phase the newness wears off and you come to make the real choices on whether you keep going or not.  The nice thing I hang onto is that every hill we climb or decend we won't ever do again, sort of bittersweet in a way, so I'm trying my best to appreciate every minute whether it's beautiful or challenging.  

Day 26 - April 19 Wednesday

Day 26

April 19 Wednesday 

Miles today 12.5 + 0.5 from shelter

Total miles

Pecks corner shelter to Cosby shelter

We have had to stay at or near shelters while we have been in the smokies and every time we've gotten to one, the shelter is full and the decent tent sites are all taken. The same was true this day but we made it work. Cosby shelter has been one of my favorites so far mostly due to the fact that the water source was literally right next to the shelter.  I haven't seen the privy yet but I heard it also had great adjacentcy.  We're either getting used to the terrain, or getting some trail legs because today's elevation change wasn't too awful and some of the overcast clouding cleared up towards the end of the day giving us some spectacular views.  I'm disappointed we missed all the views yesterday due to the weather, but we will see others.  It was amazing what a white out the clouds made.  It misty rained off and on throughout the day today. Seems like there's always some gear that you need at hand for all the quick weather changes that take place; rain gear, a light layer, warm or sun hat or sunglasses; it's a totally different senario from a weekend or short trip feeling, you really have to think how the rest of the week or day is going to play out if it rains and you or your gear get wet-if you're close to camp and can change or if it's the middle of the day and you can dry out, or if you need to stay dry because you have limited options or it's cold out etc.  

We left pecks corner this morning a little late and made an average pace on the trail.  We ran across a old helicopter pad right on the trail which was neat.  It wasn't a full square pad but basically just a couple of concrete V's in the middle of the trail and an open space.  It would be a pretty tight landing if someone had to come in.  Just shortly after that was remnants from a plane crash from the 1950's.  We had to step off trail to see it, but we aren't missing anymore views we will regret so we went down and looked and took some photos.  The entire plane wasn't in that one spot but there were pieces scattered all around.  I imagine people have picked up some parts and taken them out as "souvenirs" or something.  The parts were around the base of the trees, but some of them looked like they may have melted or been wrapped around the trees at one time. It's crazy to think about the speed and force that the impact or after explosion would have had and what had happened to the pilot.  

We arrived at our campsite around 6:20 and had to hunt around for an acceptable spot, during which it time it started sprinkling, making things more stressful hah.  We then got to make dinner and during dinner we saw the most incredible rainbow!  It was a perfect arc and you could see the whole thing.  The color was so clear and distinct, it was better than any tv show.  Usual menu of ramen and tuna with hot chocolate and a snack snickers, most anything tastes good after a long day, especially if it's warm :-) 

We can hear planes overhead from our tent tonight and it's cooling off outside but I think the ground is a little better tonight than it was last night so hopefully sleep will be alright.  Until next time, happy trails :-)